Lorella Springs

Only the one night at King Ash Bay as not alot for us to do.

The guys at Boroloola petrol station said the road to Lorella Springs was very rough, but it sounded too good to miss so we pushed on.

Lorella Springs is a million acre station with lots of springs and water holes adjacent to the Savannah Way and just outside the Limmen National park.
The trip was about 4 hours and the track was no rougher than what we had already done. The most noticeable difference was the lack of other people. We saw just two other cars on the whole trip and probably the roughest road was the road to the station from the main road.

Vivienne has decided that she cannot wear clothes in car seat. Managed to persuade her to keep undies on.

Again when we got there it was like an oasis, with a bar/restaurant reception with their own freshwater crocodile, peacock and emu. What’s more just next to the campground was a hot spring to swim in. We decided that we should spend a few nights.

Hot spring

The first day was just chilling out swimming in the hot springs which the kids loved.

Thumbs up for hot spring
Beautiful water lillies
Put hammock up which was a great hit

Also went to a small water hole close to the campground.

Everyone enjoys jumping in

The next day we decided to really splurge. We booked a family helicopter tour which went all round the station. Neither the kids or myself had ever been in a helicopter so it was very exciting. We went all the way to the Gulf which would have taken 3 hours to drive. We flew over the ocean seeing sharks, turtles and dugongs. He then landed us on a remote beach where we had a walk and collected some great shells.

We squeezed in to the helicopter
Landed on beach
Looking out to the Gulf
Great shells

From here we flew back over the station to set down by a remote water hole that would be almost impossible to get to any other way. Really beautiful, had a swim and snack.

Beautiful remote water hole

Flew back over the Lost City (more of which later) and finally over the campground. A brilliant adventure.

Lost city
Our caravan

The last day we went on a 4wd trek out into the bush to two of the stations best swimming holes. The one called Nanny’s Retreat was really special and everyone had a great day. Finishing with a swim in the campground hot spring.

Everyone enjoys head out of sunroof, especially Vivienne
Our first buffalo encounter
First water hole. Fern hole
Nanny’s Retreat
Kids enjoyed opening and closing gates
Brolga

The kids really enjoyed here and met some other kids also touring round. All of us very sad to leave.

Boroloola

Arrived at Boroloola and were very impressed with their supermarket and restocked. Rest of town quite small.

We decided to camp at King Ash Bay, about 45mins out of town and run by the Tennants Creek fishing club (Tennants Creek is about 800km away). Nice spot on the river, basically just for fishing and quite a few grey nomads. They all reported poor fishing this year. We had a try from the beach, risking the crocs, but not even a nibble.

Dusty site, but kids loved cycling around.
Loads of people out in tinnies despite the crocs.
MacArthur River
Some people seem very relaxed about crocs

Foelshe River

The first thing we encountered, about 50k from Hell’s Gate was the Queensland/Northern Territory border: just time for a quick photo.

As we were quite late setting out from Hells gate and the road was fairly rough we decided to have an overnight break, which ended up as the Foelshe River crossing.

Lunch stop. Not one car went past.

Interesting drive as we passed through a stretch of about 150km where a recent category 2 cyclone passed through a few weeks back. Loads of flattened trees for miles on end. Makes you aware of what a category 5 would be like.

Anyway lots of river crossings on the way, the deepest of which was the Foelshe crossing where the water reached the side footplates of the car.

One of the 5 water crossings
Foelshe River crossing

Luckily there was a camp site on the far bank, with a view over the crossing. The kids loved watching any cars crossing. Later we all went down to the crossing and the kids decided to wade through.

Kids in the crossing, directing cars to the shallower part.

There was a great sunset and a mist through the valley in the morning.

Sunrise
Crossing
Up river
Van by the crossing

Hell’s Gate

Savannah Way definitely unsealed from here on and of varying quality, sometimes having to slow right down, but mostly pretty good. Caravan well and truly dusty now and had to make a few running repairs. Kids loved the name and Robbie had to call it the Highway to Hell.

Proper gravel road

Arrived at Hell’s Gate and it is like an oasis. Greenest lawn I have yet seen on any campsite.

Quick game of cricket
Everyone relaxed at Hells gate

Called Hell’s Gate as it was the end of police escort from Normanton in the early settler period, and you were on your own from here till Darwin. The gate is a natural break in an escarpment that you pass through.

One of the residents had an enormous white fluffy dog, the kids called it a polar bear and it was very friendly.

Polar bear

Next morning as we were leaving we met a British backpacker just arrived to work on the station for 3 months. Really interesting place to choose as this is miles from anywhere.

Burketown

Again a short trip along the Savannah Way, mostly sealed road. We were there before 12, filled our water tanks, bought lunch and a few supplies and headed out to a river camp. Lovely location next to the river. Kept away from the water edge as we knew there were crocs in there.

Albert River
Our van on the bank

Tried a spot of unsuccessful fishing and met the nice couple just along the bank who were now 4 weeks into a 5 week stay. They had picked up a roadkill roo and placed it on the opposite bank so as to watch the resident crocodile feed. Just a case of waiting for the morning.

Difficult fishing when you have to stay away from the water. My excuse anyway.
Roadkill left on the bank

Overnight we had some power problems, which we had a good head scratch about, but managed to charge with the car. Otherwise it will have to wait for Darwin for a service.

The couple close by were lovely and gave our kids jam drops and showed them trapdoor spider holes.

Trapdoor spider holes

The crocodile arrived, but it had caught it’s own wallaby and luckily proceeded to eat it in front of us. Amazing watching it thrash it around. Such alot of power.

Croc difficult to image

Leichardt Falls

Now we hit the Savannah Way!

Not that far to the first stop and we have a stop off on the way at Bourke and Wills last campsite before they pushed on to the Gulf.

Onwards onto the gravel road and got an early lesson on outback signposts. There was a warning cone in a dip in the road which was hidden until you were almost on it. Even at 60 we took off in the Landcruiser, were airborne and it felt like the caravan joined us. Evel Knievel would have been impressed.

Bourke and Wills last campsite

Once we had all recovered and now driving at 30, we got to Leichardt Falls. There had obviously been a big flood through here with river sand piled up downstream on both banks from the Falls. We met people who had been here before and said it was totally changed, previously being green and lush with swimming holes.

Never mind, the Falls were great and the kids loved staying in a large sand pit. As we were early we also managed to get a really good location.

Crossing just above the Falls
View from the front door
Caravan from upriver
Kids built their own house
Kids loved the sand dunes

Given his recent success Robbie was desperate to get fishing again, so we rigged up and what do you know had two big fish fish in no time, trouble was we had no idea what they were so back in they went (later told they were river cod).

Hoping there are no crocs!
River cod

Karumba

Sorry for the long break, we have had very little phone reception for ages.

Cobbald Gorge track in seemed even more rough on way out, but lowering tyre pressures even more definitely helped. Long relatively uninteresting run to Normanton. I know it was Sunday, but a very quiet place. The one store that was open sold us 2l of expensive milk. Seems the only thing Normanton famous for is a purple pub.

Beautiful waterlillies just outside Normanton

Karumba was 40mins further on and sits on the coast of Gulf of Carpentaria. Here it is fish, crabs and crocs. Edwina is very excited to be in the Gulf. Lots of birds, in particular the Brolgas and lots of eagles. One of which swooped Edwina and took a slice of her nose, which was frightening.

Vivienne new fashion trend

Went round a barramundi information centre/farm which was very informative and again let us feed the fish. Great fun as they make a big splash. Luckily they don’t have teeth.

View out into Gulf

Next day was a fishing charter with fisherman Robbie, myself and Estella. Edwina and Vivienne relaxed on the beach, careful not to visit the waters edge!

Mummy and Viv relaxing on the beach.

Had a good morning, with Estella almost landing the first big fish, but it lost the line just as it reached the side of the boat, so we all got a good look. It ended up with Estella landing a good blue threadfin salmon and a small shark. Robbie landed 2 salmon, one of which was clearly the biggest of the day. Dad; he only caught a small catfish and bizarrely a crab.

Early start on fishing charter
Keen fishermen ready to go
Dad’s prize catch
Robbie’s first catch.
Robbie’s second catch
Everyone’s catch (daddy borrowing Robbie’s other fish)

Still enough fish for 3 or 4 meals and the salmon is very good eating.

Afternoon everyone tired and we all chilled in the caravan park pool, before trip to see the sunset, which Karumba is famous for and it was good, but forgot camera so no photos.

Cobbald Gorge

Left the station to go to Undara lava tubes. Great tour to see the tubes which are mostly collapsed, but some still stand from volcanic flows 170,000 years ago.

From there we decided to go for it and get to Cobbald Gorge. About 5 hour drive, mostly on tarmac, but last 50km on gravel, the start of which was pretty rough. Cobbald Gorge however was amazingly set up. On a cattle station, but set up with infinity pool, bar and restaurant, dam with canoes and what pleased the kids, fire rings for each site.

Went on the gorge tour next morning. The guide was excellent and pointed out all sorts of bush Tucker and then took us all down the narrow gorge on electric boats. Saw croc basking on the side, only a freshy though.

Croc just chilling
Guide reckon it was a baby taipan

Rest of day relaxing in kayaks on the dam and swimming in the pool, before fire in the evening with marshmallows of course.

Pinnarendi Station

Left Mareeba in the rain and headed for an extinct volcano crater which was filled with water over 70m deep.

50m to water and water 70m deep.

From there we went to Milla Milla Falls. Very pretty, but still raining!

Also passed a hot spring which was really interesting. The water came up through the sand and the hottest pool was hotter than you would want to put your hand in.

Kids loved hot springs

Decided to go to a cattle station to stay the night which was really good. The kids loved playing with the farm dogs in particular Vivienne who followed them round and sat patting them for hours. The station also did evening meals. Lasagne and chips which was very tasty and met some more people from Perth. One of whom turned out to be a CEO of SCGH.

Vivienne following dogs.

Mareeba

Left Cape Tribulation in the rain. Stopped at Thornton beach which is supposed to be where you find bouncing rocks. Not that I could find. I reckon all the tourists must have stolen them. Still pretty beach on overcast day.

Onwards to the bug museum which was really good with the woman running it taking the kids round the display. Saw some really large bugs as big as your hand, but from Africa.

Peppermint bug
Leaf bug about 15cm
Ulysses butterfly caterpillar

Just after the Daintree river crossing, there is a barramundi farm which offered fishing. We decided to have a go. Fishing in the rain, but all happy. Dad caught one, Estella two and Robbie is obviously the fisherman, he caught five. Even the woman running it was impressed.

I think dad caught the smallest

Because of this we were a bit late into Mareeba, supposedly the centre for coffee growing in Australia. Also boasted 300 dry days a year. We managed to get two off days. How lucky.

View crossing up to Tablelands from coast.

Went for pub meal in really well renovated hotel. Next morning had to do our shopping in Mareeba and all of us impressed with the idea of drive through bakery.

The lady at the checkout in Coles tells Edwina of a possible cyclone causing all this rain, we decide it best to start examing some weather reports in future. Luckily the cyclone was down graded to a tropical storm and crossed the coast at Cape Tribulation. Missed it by a day!