Only a few hours to the Bungle Bungles campground so leisurely departure and other than a few temper tantrums no problems.

Everyone up early next morning with Robbie waking them all at 5.30. The road into Purnululu national park is a 4wd track so the caravan is left behind at the campground and we leave on our day trip with a picnic lunch. Left at 7.30am and got to Bungle Bungles at 9.30, with a few stops for vomiting! Very twisty and undulating track with corrugations and sharp rocks for 50km. Lots of cars stopped with tyre blowouts, luckily; or maybe skillfully we were okay.

Walk around Bungle Bungles was amazing with the banded sandstone hills.

Also nearby Cathedral Gorge was stunning with brilliant acoustics.

After lunch we made it to the northern end if the park to trek into Echidna Gorge. Narrow sandstone gorge at some points about 1m wide and 70 to 100m deep, extending about 500m. Really cool and picturesque.

All the kids did really well with the trekking, especially Echidna as there was lots of clambering over rocks.

Mabel Downs campsite was great with good communal camp fire at night.

Short drive to Kununurra so arrived just before 10am, so kids had quick run in park whilst we waited for the site to be available.

In the afternoon we went out to see the Ord River irrigation areas, all gravity irrigation and large fields of sweet corn, melons and surprisingly sandalwood trees which make up 70 percent of land and we were told each tree of about 15years is worth $80,000. Sounds like I need to plant some at home.

Also went over the Ivanhoe Crossing which used to be the only road to Wyndam. Fun driving the cruiser over in the water.

Finished afternoon with a trip to Hoochery, a rum distillery for afternoon tea. Unfortunately tv in campsite so kids always there.

Next morning Vivienne decided to wake at 4.50am. We then went on a 2 hours flight over Bungle Bungles and Lake Argyle, which was really interesting. We drive down to have a closer look at the Bungle Bungles tomorrow.

Afternoon spent stocking up for the 2 weeks on the Gibb. Really good wildlife at campsite.

Early start as Google maps said it was nearly 7 hours drive to Lake Argyle. 7.45am start was really good and pretty sparse population. The road was a bit more interesting than we thought and Victoria River roadhouse was a beautiful area, but not much time to stop.

Timber Creek was also a nice stop with the Victoria River now quite wide.

On we went to WA border with only a brief stop for some lunch. At the border we had to dump all fruits and vegetables as well as the honey. Also a 90min change in time zone.

Then on to Lake Argyle, which I have always wanted to visit. The grey nomads had got there first however and all that was left for us was an unpowered reserve site, even though we arrived at 13.00 (14.30 NT time). Parked up and then went for quick swim in the pool (cleverly set up as infinity pool with view over lake).

As still early went down to the dam wall which was really interesting and saw a 2.5m freshwater crocodile.

Next day everyone up at 05.40 when the sun came up as now in WA and time zone change! As we were up so early we went for a walk to see the Ord River and then in the afternoon went down to swim in the Lake (we were pretty much the only people there, everyone else went to the pool which was packed). We took the kayak out, Robbie had to chuck in a line and lo and behold 3 little catfish later he was happy. Lovely in lake and really pretty. We were assured freshwater crocodiles are not a problem as they are so shy, they run away. Just as well as there are supposed to be 35,000 in Lake Argyle!

Katherine again as the roads all converge back here. We didn’t stay last time and wow was it busy. The first campground had no places and the second had only the one spot. The campground’s other 159 sites were all taken and there are 7 campgrounds in Katherine! The grey nomads have really arrived now. We were warned that the season started 1st June. I guess we will need to do some booking ahead now.

We set up and went to get a few supplies, but not much as WA tomorrow and quarantine for fruit and veg.

Then off to the hot springs which were nice, but not as warm as bitter springs, or quite as pretty, but still fun.

Back on the road, but only short 2 hours drive to campground in Litchfield National park. Decided to stay at Florence Falls. Got there at 12.30 and one of the sites already filled, but found somewhere else in the second campground. Quick lunch and lovely 800m walk to Falls along river bank. Beautiful falls which you could swim under.

Bit too hot for a fire in evening.

Next day we went to Wangi Falls about 40km. Much larger pool and taller falls. Very impressed.

On the way back went to Buley Rockholes which were a series of pools and cascades which you could swim and jump into. The kids and I loved this especially one hole which was really deep. I couldn’t touch the bottom and I reckon it must have been 4m deep at least. Brilliant for jumping in from the surrounding walls.

Relaxed for afternoon with early dinner and then twilight swim at the falls, all by ourselves. Followed by a fire expertly set and started by Robbie in which we all toasted marshmallows.

Everyone was looking forward to Darwin as we had decided that as we were putting the caravan in to be serviced we would be staying in an apartment for 5 nights.

Darwin was only 90mins away and there was great excitement as we drove into the biggest city we had seen for ages. We had an apartment at the waterfront development next to the artificial swimming beach and with ocean views. Really nice place and very convenient. More of a concern was the caravan service. A real backstreet operation that did not inspire confidence, but too late now. What’s more Monday was a bank holiday. We decided that we should extend the darwin stay for another night to make planning easier. I went off to replace the caravan tyre, while Edwina took the kids swimming.

First day Edwina went for a haircut and I took the kids to a great playground with an amazing slide and equipment. The locals were all complaining about the cold weather snap and we did need jumpers. Late afternoon went to the market at the beach which was great, lots of food vans of varying quality, but nice sunset over the beach.

The next day the car had it’s own service and we went to botanical gardens and to the waterfront beach. Unfortunately the wave park was shut as the tiles were falling off the walls.

Saturday The temperature had well and truly picked up and definitely no need for jumpers now. We went to the Museum of the Northern Territory, with interesting images of cyclone Tracey in 1974. We then went to the Greek festival for lunch which had lots of food, most of it very good and we all over indulged, especially the desserts. Back to the pool and a family movie night with pizza, although the movie Prince of Egypt was a bit old testament fire and brimstone for the girls.

Finally on Sunday they opened the inflatable water park which we all went to. The bouncing pillow catapulted Robbie way into the sky and I think kind of frightened him, but he was alright.

Finally on the Monday we went to another of the free water parks (3 in total in Darwin) which had a toddler’s park and 3 waterslides, one of which was in total darkness. All for free and not even that busy. Was really very impressive. That tired them all out so had dinner in and another movie. Nanny McPhee this time and now we keep threatening her on our kids.

Picked up the caravan having been unable to contact them for the last 5 days and they had only done the wheel bearings, although not entirely convinced they did that. Any way off we go again. As we left we went to the WW2 underground fuel storage tunnels as they were next to the apartment. Enormous tunnels 190m long designed to store fuel after bombing of Darwin.

Overall everyone really enjoyed Darwin.

Only a short trip in the direction of Darwin, so we got there before lunch and again a pretty site next to the river with loads of wallabies.

For the afternoon Robbie, Estella and I went for a crocodile jumping trip. Edwina and Vivienne deciding to relax instead. The crocodile tour was very busy and wow, what a lot of crocs in that river. We saw about 10 in 60 minutes and the largest was approximately 6 metres. They fed them pork chops on a stick, getting them to jump up. Amazing how high they can get. Easily 150cm out of the water.

Got back to the campground and had a nice fire.

The return trip on the gravel road was a bit faster and had quick stop to re-inflate the tyres at a lookout and for some lunch, before heading on to Jabiru. Unfortunately Jim Jim Falls and Barramundi Falls both still closed after the wet season.

Caravan site at Jabiru was really nice with green grass and lots of space with a pool and restaurant/bar.
Decided to book in for a boat cruise from Cahill’s crossing for next morning so we had to get going early. Cahill’s crossing is the access into Arnhem land and is a floodway crossing over the tidal river. It is famous for crocodiles lining up on the crossing to catch fish on the turning tide.
The boat tour was done by an Aboriginal guy from Arnhem land and he showed us loads of crocodiles, demonstrated spears and instructed us in the uses of multiple plants and trees. We also had a short stop into Arnhem land. Overall a really good tour.

We then went to see if the crocodiles were at the crossing as the tide was turning, but none around. Did watch some cars crossing, but it looked quite deep and there was a strong tidal flow.

Afternoon chilling out and all went for a drink in the bar.

Leisurely departure was my fault for not adequately reading the map. We went to Katherine to the supermarket and found somewhere to wash car and caravan, both of which sorely needed it by then. Could not recognise them.

Kakadu quite a bit further and decided to go to Gunlom Falls for first night. This unfortunately was about 60km down an unsealed road which we took really slow as we didn’t want to dirty everything again. Finally arrived at a really busy campsite at about 5pm.

Found somewhere to park, but Edwina noticed caravan tyre flat so then got my first experience of changing a caravan tyre, which was relatively straightforward thankfully, but meant a late dinner, but kids were happy as we still managed a fire.

Next morning we trekked up the path alongside the waterfall to a fantastic swimming spot at the top of the escarpment. It was just like a natural infinity pool and really beautiful.

At Lorella Springs there was a notice that there was no fuel at Roper Bar and their fuel was $3/litre. We made the decision to fill up from our Jerry cans which made the tank just short of full.

We had been speaking to another man at the campground who told us they had easily made it from Mataranka although it had taken them from 9.30 to 4.30 and they had stopped for lunch so we decided to go for it.

We managed to get going early at 9.30 and decided to stop at the Southern Lost city which we had flown over. It was amazing with tall sandstone pillars and it really did look like a ruined city. We would have liked to have stayed longer, but the kids were arcing up and we knew it was a long way still to go.

Stopped for 10 mins for lunch at a river camp, but decided to eat it in the car as seemed to be a long way still to go. The road was variable with some good gravel and some pretty rough where we had to slow right down.

Finally reached the bitumen at Roper Bar and decided to try to get all the way to Mataranka which was 180km and we had just over a quarter tank. The car trip computer saying that we could comfortably make it. As we found out it is woefully inaccurate. We stopped to re-inflate the tyres on car and van before starting. Initially we seemed to be doing fine at 100kph, but it soon became apparent that this was not quite as comfortable as we thought. We slowed to 80, then 60kph, turned off the phone chargers and the air conditioning (had to open the windows). Thought about stopping the kids DVD, but decided I would rather run out of fuel. Considered stopping for the night at roadside stop, but the first had been burnt out by a bush fire and then the next was pretty close to a further fire and no phone reception, so on we went. At 50km to go the fuel light came on and I had Edwina consulting the car manual to see how much the reserve was. By 30km to go the trip computer said our range was 0 and to refuel now. We crept into The first petrol station in Mataranka at 18.10pm in the twilight. We still had 7 litres remaining! By the time we found our site it was dark and well done to Edwina for directing me into the site in the dark in a very packed caravan park. A long day for all.

Next day we went to Bitter Springs which was really beautiful, although slightly touristy. They are hot springs which are spectacularly clear. You float along with the current in the warm water, get out, walk back up and repeat. So good that we went back again in the afternoon, although slightly less clear in the afternoon.

Campsite really busy, but nice birds came for a feed (rainbow pittas) and friendly Joey.