Next morning we went to Windjana Gorge, only about 500m from the campground. A different wider gorge, it was really stunning. A walk of about 90 minutes got you past a waterhole with about 70 freshwater crocodiles sunning themselves in the morning sun and to the roosting site of a large colony of fruit bats (or flying foxes) making a huge amount of noise. Really cool.

Walked back and decided to leave at lunch time to get to Derby.

Hit the first bit of tarmac not far from the campground and after stopping to re-inflate all the tyres we went on to Derby.

Finally reached phone reception about 10km out and got ourselves what seemed to be the last campsite in the only caravan park in Derby, although phone reception was really poor. Very amused to read on internet that grading of the entire Gibb River road is to commence in 2 days time!!!

More corrugated track, but managed to get to Windjana Gorge camp site around midday.

Quick set up and lunch and off to Tunnel Creek, about 30 minutes away. This was excellent; a river that flows underground for about 900m and in the dry season you can walk through using torches. Wide dusty tunnel with good stalegtites and stalegmites. You also need to wade through water above knee height (or if Vivienne you are carried). At the far end is a lovely water hole, then you walk back. Kids and adults alike enjoyed. Little cave off to the side had a beautiful stone waterfall.

Back at the campground the kids all played with other kids and were exhausted.

Not far to drive to next stop, and managed to find some apples which made everyone happy.

On to Bell Gorge campsite and the kids were arcing up so we decided to have a rest for the day and they found some friends to play with which made them all happy.

Next day we went to the gorge. A short drive and walk. Very pretty with small waterfall and some deep pools although water rather cold.

Kids played with their friends for afternoon which gave Edwina and I some relaxing time.

Managed to leave Mount Elizabeth Station at 7.50 and arrived at Mount Barnett by 9.30. They had a reasonable store and also diesel and drinking water.

Got to site by 10 and then we went on to Manning Gorge, which was an hour walk and a boat crossing at the start of the walk, where you pulled yourself across in a tinnie, which the kids loved.

The gorge itself was very enjoyable with deep water and cliffs to jump off. Robbie and Estella finally summoning up the courage to launch themselves off the 8m platform. Good on them. Dad decided he didn’t need to prove himself.

Really busy campsite, but now fully on the mainstream tourist trail.

Took ages to re pack everything in the morning at Drysdale and then fill up with fuel and water so didn’t get on the way till 11am. Talking to the man at the station he was telling me it was the driest year since 1947 and that was why it was so dusty and why there was no water in any of the river crossings.

Once on the way though we found that the grader we had passed on the way in had been working hard and the road was is really good condition. Then about 20km from Gibb the corrugations turned really bad. We had to slow to 8kph over the worst. We stopped at Gibb for some supplies, they even had fresh apples and vegetables. Had a look in the van and the rubbish shower door had fallen out yet again, even with the Velcro holding them shut. This time though one of the panels had smashed, although luckily it was still intact, so yet more gaffer tape and we set off again. Loads of dust and one broken cupboard hinge, which was easily repairable, was all that was wrong otherwise.

The road into Mount Elizabeth Station was intermittently bad, so again had to slow alot.

Camped in paddock with some cows coming to say hello.

Next day we went to Wunnamurra Gorge. This was down a 4wd track which was only 10km away, but took 90mins to get there with some big rocky paths, needing high clearance and low range. The gorge was a 20min hike and was amazing when you arrived, even though the water was only just flowing. Great swimming although really cold.

A further 90mins 4wd track back, which all enjoyed.

Another fire, with marshmallows made everyone happy at night.

Up early again as everyone seems to wake at 6am. Finished packing the car as we are leaving the caravan at Drysdale for our side trip as the road is fairly rough.

We had bought 2 cheap tents, a gas burner and some floor mats in Kununurra in preparation. Decided we would just use our bedding from the caravan. Left about 9.30 and did well getting to turn off in 80mins. There were some corrugations, but you can go so much faster without the caravan!

After turn off the road was good to King Edward camp, where you have to buy an extortionate park pass. The road then continues to the Mitchell Falls campsite, about 80km away. Sounds easy, but the road is posted as not maintained and there were some pretty awesome corrugations for about 40km. So bad the DVD player refused to go on and you feel that your teeth are going to be damaged.

Stopped just before campground to collect firewood and arrived by 13.30, with only minor repairs needed to tighten the spotties. Put out the car awning and the tents, then went for a trip to Little Merten Falls for a paddle.

Got back to realise that the crows had eaten our defrosting spaghetti Bolognese so we had to improvise with a bacon, tomato and spaghetti dinner that was really tasty and everyone ate it all up sitting round the campfire. Luckily it wasn’t as cold overnight and the kids slept well only getting up at 6am.

We did some toasted cheese jaffles with our new iron over the gas burner, which were a great success. Started the walk by 7.30 and got there by 9, so we were pretty much the only people there. On the way we saw 3 snakes, a 3m olive python, a king brown and not sure about the other. Also loads of lizards. The water over the falls was small volume, but they would be awesome in the wet.

We all had a swim in the river above the Falls which was really refreshing and then walked back by noon. Packed up and had lunch, leaving at 13.45. Slightly quicker on the way back as knew the road and were back to Drysdale Station for 16.45. Car has decided that it was too rough and now has a non urgent error message that we will need to get checked out in Broome.

Drysdale Station had a beer garden so we had dinner there.

Easy start as not alot to pack up. Got to Gibb River-Kulumbaru road quickly and went north to Drysdale Station. Only 40km, but some stretches were so corrugated we had to slow to 8kph. Always a forboding feeling when you overtake a grader that is travelling to start work.

Anyway finally got to Drysdale, another million acre station. A really dry and dust place, where we spent the afternoon preparing for our camping trip to Mitchell Falls.

Just out of Home Valley Station was the supposed only Telstra reception of the whole Gibb River road. Also happened to be a really great lookout! We spent some time paying bills before setting off.

The road was more rocky than corrugated, and not too bad. The worst road was probably that of the turn off to Ellenbrae Station where we had a nice lunch of excellent scones with jam and cream, along with mango smoothies. So good we all had to get seconds.

We decided to go on a bit further and found a free camp site where we were all alone. The kids found some junk people had left, an old caravan awning etc. and busied themselves making a bridge between two gravel piles, before we had a fire under the stars.

Only about 40km up the road from the El Questro turn off. Opted for the station campground for mains power and also as there was a large playground that the girls really wanted to play at.

Nice place, no where near as busy as El Questro, but had a pool, bar and restaurant. Kids played the afternoon before we went for a drink at the bar.

Next day we went on a short drive to Bindoola Falls. The falls were dry, but there was a lovely water hole at the base of the cliff, which we climbed down to and went for a swim. Really nice morning.

Before we had left we set the bread maker going and everyone really enjoyed fresh warm bread for lunch. Late afternoon we went down to the river camp to see the Pentecost River which was really big. We saw loads of bait fish skimming the surface and a sting ray chasing them onto the bank.

There were guys fishing who whilst we were there caught a threadfin salmon and a shovelnose shark. We threw a line in, but with my normal fishing expertise I managed to lose the end of the rod and no one was game enough to try to recover it from the deep mud at the edge of the crocodile infested river. By the time we got back we decided to go out for dinner which was great.

Up early again, 5.40 am! Noisy helicopters taking passengers to Bungles! We packed up to leave about 9. The drive to Gibb River road is easy enough and the first section is sealed to allow access to El Questro. The road into El Questro is unsealed, so we let all the tyres down, but road pretty good with only minor corrugations and a couple of water crossings; none very deep. Lots of people at campsite, but we found an alright spot. More like tourist park than station stay.

Next day we decide to go on a trek to moonshine gorge. This involved a deep water river crossing of about 600mm, for which they advise a snorkel. The kids enjoyed it, although I think Edwina held her breath for the crossing!

Didn’t quite realise that the grading of the walk was spot on, as most have been over graded. Still the kids did really well clambering over the riverbed rocks on the 3 hour trek. We then had a swim in the water hole at the end.

Also drove up to a lookout with good views of the river.

The Saturday we went to the Zebedee hot springs before breakfast. Lovely warm water. I took Estella back for a junior ranger tour, then returned to pick up the others.

We had lunch at a water hole where Edwina and I went for a swim, Robbie fished (two small flathead type fish) and the girls drew pictures. Quick trip back and forth through the deep water river crossing for fun and home.

Evening we went for the buffet all you can eat bbq, which was great.

Sunday was my birthday, a youthful 46 years, even with the grey hair! Had presents and cards then we all went to Emma gorge for a walk. Again a fairly difficult trek with lots of large river rocks, but only one hour each way and the kids were fine. Vivienne even finishing without me needing to carry. At the top there was a lovely water hole for swimming, although water rather cold.

Lunch at the Emma gorge restaurant and home for birthday chocolate cake that Edwina had made, topped off with a citronella candle (the only candles we had on board)

Evening went for good dinner at the restaurant at El Questro station. Kids asleep in an instant. Onwards tomorrow!